We are now in Cambodia and immediately noticed stark differences between this small country and Malaysia where we had just come from. We were getting a little too comfortable with all the modern amenities in Malaysia, so we looked forward to going a bit more raw.
After arriving and spending 2 days here in Siem Reap we have some early first impressions.
Upon exiting the plane onto the tarmac - movie style - we knew Cambodia would be a special place. It was immediately much more informal, which is what we dig the most about "developing" countries. Developed countries seem to have far too many rules, procedures, and laws these days.
Our first interaction with stately-dressed "officials" was to get our visa on arrival. After I called them out for trying to overcharge us by $60, they half-smiled, half-grimaced and moved our passports down the assembly line of at least 20 other officials.
Luckily, I researched exactly what things would cost and, thanks to some great travel bloggers, I was well prepared. The cost for a 30 day visa is $20 per adult (13 years and older) and free for children 12 and under.
Next was immigration. There was no line when we got to immigration, but it took what seemed like an eternity to process all the entry forms and to add the visa and stamps to our five passports. Perhaps it was shorter than it seemed, but the kids were breaking into wrestling mode in the background and I was anxiously itching to play referee.
While methodically stamping the various forms, the middle-aged man murmured something under his breath clearly directed at me, but his eyes remained focused on his task. I couldn't quite make it out. I said, "Pardon me, I didn't understand you."
And he repeated it again, but still under his breath and with a thick Cambodian accent. I said again, "I'm sorry, I just don't understand." To that he returned quietly to his work.
When he was finally done, he handed me our passports and looked me squarely in the eye and said in clear English, "Do you have a tip for me?"
Welcome to Cambodia!
Customs? Yeah, no one even there. We walked right through!
I went to Angkor Wat the first evening to get our passes to visit. At that point in the day they will let you go in to get your first glance without charging you a day. Angkor Wat REALLY is as incredible as everyone says.
I even got up at 4:30am to see the sunrise! If you know us at all this is no small feat, especially since we had gotten up that early the day before to catch our flight. We have been here 2 days now and each time we go there is more to explore and magic to be felt! So much history and beauty all in one place is simply hard to put into words.
Angkor Wat is NOT the only amazingly beautiful temple located in the area! We have not even really begun to explore them all but what we have seen in Angkor Thom and the surrounding area has already blown our minds. There is an affordable boutique hotel called Tara Angkor which is just 5km away from Angkor Wat where you can stay for $46 a night, in case you need more time to visit the place. And trust me you need more time!
Cambodian people are some of the most persistent people I have encountered. "No I DO NOT want to buy a book!!! Because I already have that book!" Or a postcard because no one uses those anymore. And please exit before the fifth time I politely say no thank you!
That said, nobody is begging. Everyone is attempting to offer us value with a smile -- even the friendly customs agent.
Poverty is certainly more evident here compared to Penang and Kuala Lumpur which are upscale even for Malaysia. This high level of poverty, coupled with their tragic recent past, led us to expect a more melancholy population. But, as always, the people seem happy and are sweet and helpful so far, if not overly opportunistic.
Although underneath all of the waving and smiling you can still sense a sadness that is hard to explain. Perhaps it's exhaustion, perhaps it's the memories of the not so distant atrocities still haunting this beautiful country, but either way I can feel it!
These people are survivors trying to claw there way back to prosperity. Their desperation is almost completely masked by their pride when offering a helpful service or product to awestruck tourists like ourselves. They all seem to have a keen understanding that tourism helps every individual in the country.
Some rustic observations. Who knew gasoline could be sold in bottles on the side of the road from metal drums with a hand crank?
This counts as a bathtub here... according to the hotel listing on Agoda.
Motorbikes can and do pull just about anything, from mounds of live ducks (wish I snapped that pic), to dead roasted pigs, to tuk tuks full of people, and overflowing selections of plastic stuff. Resourcefulness is something that Cambodians take to a whole new level!
It is incredibly hot in June, so hot that the minute the sun comes up you wish it would rain! All the suggestions are to tour the temples very early to beat the heat, but by 7am it was nearly as hot as it was at 12pm, so aside from the sunrise visit, I don't think it matters much what time you start! Either way, expect to sweat!
We have just begun our Cambodia adventure but it is off to a wonderful start! Follow along and/or add suggested spots to visit in the comments below!
After arriving and spending 2 days here in Siem Reap we have some early first impressions.
Upon exiting the plane onto the tarmac - movie style - we knew Cambodia would be a special place. It was immediately much more informal, which is what we dig the most about "developing" countries. Developed countries seem to have far too many rules, procedures, and laws these days.
Our first interaction with stately-dressed "officials" was to get our visa on arrival. After I called them out for trying to overcharge us by $60, they half-smiled, half-grimaced and moved our passports down the assembly line of at least 20 other officials.
Luckily, I researched exactly what things would cost and, thanks to some great travel bloggers, I was well prepared. The cost for a 30 day visa is $20 per adult (13 years and older) and free for children 12 and under.
Next was immigration. There was no line when we got to immigration, but it took what seemed like an eternity to process all the entry forms and to add the visa and stamps to our five passports. Perhaps it was shorter than it seemed, but the kids were breaking into wrestling mode in the background and I was anxiously itching to play referee.
While methodically stamping the various forms, the middle-aged man murmured something under his breath clearly directed at me, but his eyes remained focused on his task. I couldn't quite make it out. I said, "Pardon me, I didn't understand you."
And he repeated it again, but still under his breath and with a thick Cambodian accent. I said again, "I'm sorry, I just don't understand." To that he returned quietly to his work.
When he was finally done, he handed me our passports and looked me squarely in the eye and said in clear English, "Do you have a tip for me?"
Welcome to Cambodia!
Customs? Yeah, no one even there. We walked right through!
I went to Angkor Wat the first evening to get our passes to visit. At that point in the day they will let you go in to get your first glance without charging you a day. Angkor Wat REALLY is as incredible as everyone says.
I even got up at 4:30am to see the sunrise! If you know us at all this is no small feat, especially since we had gotten up that early the day before to catch our flight. We have been here 2 days now and each time we go there is more to explore and magic to be felt! So much history and beauty all in one place is simply hard to put into words.
Angkor Wat is NOT the only amazingly beautiful temple located in the area! We have not even really begun to explore them all but what we have seen in Angkor Thom and the surrounding area has already blown our minds. There is an affordable boutique hotel called Tara Angkor which is just 5km away from Angkor Wat where you can stay for $46 a night, in case you need more time to visit the place. And trust me you need more time!
The Bayon, inside Angkor Thom |
That said, nobody is begging. Everyone is attempting to offer us value with a smile -- even the friendly customs agent.
This really is a great book, so say yes just this once:) |
Although underneath all of the waving and smiling you can still sense a sadness that is hard to explain. Perhaps it's exhaustion, perhaps it's the memories of the not so distant atrocities still haunting this beautiful country, but either way I can feel it!
These people are survivors trying to claw there way back to prosperity. Their desperation is almost completely masked by their pride when offering a helpful service or product to awestruck tourists like ourselves. They all seem to have a keen understanding that tourism helps every individual in the country.
Some rustic observations. Who knew gasoline could be sold in bottles on the side of the road from metal drums with a hand crank?
This counts as a bathtub here... according to the hotel listing on Agoda.
Yeah, haven't taken a bath yet! |
It is incredibly hot in June, so hot that the minute the sun comes up you wish it would rain! All the suggestions are to tour the temples very early to beat the heat, but by 7am it was nearly as hot as it was at 12pm, so aside from the sunrise visit, I don't think it matters much what time you start! Either way, expect to sweat!
We have just begun our Cambodia adventure but it is off to a wonderful start! Follow along and/or add suggested spots to visit in the comments below!
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