I have been asked several times in the past few months IF I work. Now I understand it seems to the outside viewer that we are on permanent vacation and one of the first things they wonder is HOW we can afford it, but they are actually asking me this question THROUGH my website. I wonder how exactly they think it runs?
It made me realize that people love reading and following blogs but very few know exactly what it takes to make it successful. There are a lot, and I mean millions, of travel related blogs out there. Some are simply to keep their friends and family abreast of what they are doing, some are purely for profit, and most, like mine, are sort of a mix of both.
I started this blog to let people know what we are doing and to motivate people to know that this lifestyle is possible. I also wanted to share the knowledge that I have gained over the past decade to help people plan vacations. When I started it was a whirlwind of designing the blog, putting it together, adding and subtracting things we liked and didn’t like, and trying to learn the ins and outs of the travel blogging world.
After the first 6 months of researching, learning, reading, and connecting on social media sites I finally felt like I understood how it all works. At that point, as the blog gained a following, we decided to monetize it. We realized that we could still maintain a useful blog while at the same time making a little extra money.
I spend most of my time on day-to-day things like writing, social media, and emails. And, of course, the actual traveling bit so I have something to write about.
Research
Many hours are spent on research for travel. Where to head to next, trying to find the cheapest flights, searching for the best place to stay within our budget, things to do while we are there, etc. This is all part of blogging, as what we do we blog about!
If I were asked what the toughest part of constant travel was or what the toughest component to blogging is, I would answer research to both questions. I have a love hate relationship with it but at the end of the day it is a true necessity! I don't plan a lot as I think that hinders travel in a sense, but with 3 children and a limited budget we need to have a general idea of what we are doing!
Weekly time spent: On average 5-7 hours! (this varies depending on what we are doing)
Actual articles
Of course the main piece of work that goes into blogging is writing. If you want your blog to gain readers you will need good content that people can relate to and you should be posting several times a week. With 3 kids and constant moving I only post 1-2 times per week, but it should be slightly more in my opinion. I'm working on it..
Each post also takes more than just the time to write, which varies depending on the topic, at least for me. I always include photos, so there is the choosing and editing of each photo in order to give my readers the best I can. Then there is the tagging, editing, labelling, posting, sharing, etc. It is not uncommon for one article to take several hours spread out over multiple days.
Weekly time spent: On average 12 hours a week!
The money making bit
Making money is really my tertiary concern, but once we figured it out and started to make some it was certainly a welcome benefit. To make money I spent several hours a week emailing, contacting clients, drafting up posts, placing ads, and general organizational tasks to keep it all in order.
We also realized that we are helping advertise for free when we visit someplace and then blog about it. So I now contact a venue before we go, like Universal Studios in Singapore, and request tickets in exchange for online exposure. This also takes quite a bit of time as I need to draft up formal pitches explaining how and what I will offer and how exactly our visit can benefit them. Then I have to write, edit and add images to the post after we visit. But these “freebies” have been an unexpected benefit of writing about our adventures.
Weekly time spent: On average 8 hours a week!
Getting and keeping social followers
Social media is the bane of my travel blogging existence...there I said it! A huge part of gaining and keeping readers is of course through honest content, but after that it is social media engagement. Some will argue and rail against the entire thing but in my experience it matters!
Facebook and Twitter are where I have networked with fellow bloggers and learned so much. On top of that, the constant changes to Facebook and need to update and “post” keep me busy multiple times per day. To keep followers you need to keep active to hold their attention. It is more time consuming than you may think.
Weekly time spent: On average 8-12 hours per week!
There are many more little things that go into running a travel blog. I am not complaining at all, I love writing, taking pictures, sharing our adventures, inspiring others to step outside their comfort zones, and most of all traveling, but there is a lot of work to it. I make my own schedule and even though I typically spend 25-40 hours a week on the blog it is my choice to make and my timeframe to follow. I wouldn’t have it any other way…most days!
For those of you out there thinking of becoming a travel blogger, I say go for it! But keep in mind all the time that goes into it, you really need to love traveling and writing to make it work!
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| Sometimes travel blogging is this peaceful......but not usually....it IS work! |
I started this blog to let people know what we are doing and to motivate people to know that this lifestyle is possible. I also wanted to share the knowledge that I have gained over the past decade to help people plan vacations. When I started it was a whirlwind of designing the blog, putting it together, adding and subtracting things we liked and didn’t like, and trying to learn the ins and outs of the travel blogging world.
After the first 6 months of researching, learning, reading, and connecting on social media sites I finally felt like I understood how it all works. At that point, as the blog gained a following, we decided to monetize it. We realized that we could still maintain a useful blog while at the same time making a little extra money.
I spend most of my time on day-to-day things like writing, social media, and emails. And, of course, the actual traveling bit so I have something to write about.
Research
Many hours are spent on research for travel. Where to head to next, trying to find the cheapest flights, searching for the best place to stay within our budget, things to do while we are there, etc. This is all part of blogging, as what we do we blog about!
If I were asked what the toughest part of constant travel was or what the toughest component to blogging is, I would answer research to both questions. I have a love hate relationship with it but at the end of the day it is a true necessity! I don't plan a lot as I think that hinders travel in a sense, but with 3 children and a limited budget we need to have a general idea of what we are doing!
Weekly time spent: On average 5-7 hours! (this varies depending on what we are doing)
Actual articles
Of course the main piece of work that goes into blogging is writing. If you want your blog to gain readers you will need good content that people can relate to and you should be posting several times a week. With 3 kids and constant moving I only post 1-2 times per week, but it should be slightly more in my opinion. I'm working on it..
![]() |
| Taking and editing photos is another part of writing articles that takes a lot of time! |
Weekly time spent: On average 12 hours a week!
The money making bit
Making money is really my tertiary concern, but once we figured it out and started to make some it was certainly a welcome benefit. To make money I spent several hours a week emailing, contacting clients, drafting up posts, placing ads, and general organizational tasks to keep it all in order.
We also realized that we are helping advertise for free when we visit someplace and then blog about it. So I now contact a venue before we go, like Universal Studios in Singapore, and request tickets in exchange for online exposure. This also takes quite a bit of time as I need to draft up formal pitches explaining how and what I will offer and how exactly our visit can benefit them. Then I have to write, edit and add images to the post after we visit. But these “freebies” have been an unexpected benefit of writing about our adventures.
Weekly time spent: On average 8 hours a week!
Getting and keeping social followers
Social media is the bane of my travel blogging existence...there I said it! A huge part of gaining and keeping readers is of course through honest content, but after that it is social media engagement. Some will argue and rail against the entire thing but in my experience it matters!
Facebook and Twitter are where I have networked with fellow bloggers and learned so much. On top of that, the constant changes to Facebook and need to update and “post” keep me busy multiple times per day. To keep followers you need to keep active to hold their attention. It is more time consuming than you may think.
Weekly time spent: On average 8-12 hours per week!
There are many more little things that go into running a travel blog. I am not complaining at all, I love writing, taking pictures, sharing our adventures, inspiring others to step outside their comfort zones, and most of all traveling, but there is a lot of work to it. I make my own schedule and even though I typically spend 25-40 hours a week on the blog it is my choice to make and my timeframe to follow. I wouldn’t have it any other way…most days!
For those of you out there thinking of becoming a travel blogger, I say go for it! But keep in mind all the time that goes into it, you really need to love traveling and writing to make it work!
Traveling around the world can be lonely from time to time. Sure, because of the Internet we can stay in touch with friends and family back home. Yet, there's nothing like sitting around a dinner table with friends who speak your language and that you have something in common with.
We've been lucky enough in our travels to encounter some terrific people; from extended acquaintances to interesting fellow travelers. It's rare, however, to meet up with families that are enjoying the same lifestyle of full-time travel like we are. It takes a certain sense of adventure and willingness to live outside the mainstream paradigm to travel with kids. For that, we feel immediate kinship with the brave families that attempt this lifestyle.
After four months of bouncing around different parts of Thailand and Laos, our plans were to check out Cambodia and Vietnam. However, because of business needs we were drawn to Malaysia. Isn't it interesting how circumstance and intuition lead the path you were probably supposed to take all along?
Just before heading to Malaysia, we tapped into the family travel blogger community to seek more information about what to expect. To our pleasant surprise, one of the most active members of travel bloggers had a home base in Penang and encouraged us to visit their area. Knowing that local knowledge is always better than winging it, and encouraged that our kids could have playmates, we obliged.
We did not expect the level of generous hospitality that followed. Tracy and Colin Burns, who run a family travel blog and a travel community website, treated us as nothing less than family. They took us to many local restaurants that we would have never found on our own. They taxied us to the mall on several occasions. And they gave us crucial business tips about local banking and travel blogging.
We immediately felt comfortable with the Burns. Being from Australia, they spoke English, albeit with an excellently exotic accent to us Americans. After a few days palling around with them in Penang, they invited us to join them in the Perhentian islands. We jumped at the chance and crammed into their minivan for a 6-hour drive to the speedboat pier to visit these remote islands.
The islands were something out of a movie. Crystal clear water, lively coral reef with brightly-colored fish, sea turtles and sharks, white sand beaches, good food and great company. The trip to Perhentians epitomized the full-time family vacation we envisioned for our world tour. Experiencing it with the Burns family made it that much better.
When it was time to return to Penang, we discovered that our previous guest house was fully booked. Without hesitation, the Burns offered for us to stay at their house. Despite our immediate appreciation, we were nervous that we bring too much chaos with three rambunctious boys to accept. Yet, they insisted.
They made us feel right at home giving us two of their bedrooms to bunk in. Tracy made a gourmet dinner our first night in their home. We continued our enlightening discussions about homeschooling and travel philosophy while the kids jumped on the trampoline and played extensively with almost no tears. They truly went above and beyond to help us and make us feel comfortable. For that, we can't even begin to express the proper level of gratitude to them.
The immediate kinship of sharing the same lifestyle is an obvious attraction to family travel bloggers. But the unbelievably generous hospitality was something that was unexpected. Thank you Burns family from the bottom of our hearts. Your friendship means a lot to us.
If you're planning on traveling with your family to South East Asia or anywhere for that matter, you will not find many better websites and people to contact than the Burns. Please visit their websites below:
http://www.ourtravellifestyle.com/
http://www.vagabondfamily.org/
http://www.nunomad.com/
| Having each other is amazing but meeting new friends is even better! |
After four months of bouncing around different parts of Thailand and Laos, our plans were to check out Cambodia and Vietnam. However, because of business needs we were drawn to Malaysia. Isn't it interesting how circumstance and intuition lead the path you were probably supposed to take all along?
Just before heading to Malaysia, we tapped into the family travel blogger community to seek more information about what to expect. To our pleasant surprise, one of the most active members of travel bloggers had a home base in Penang and encouraged us to visit their area. Knowing that local knowledge is always better than winging it, and encouraged that our kids could have playmates, we obliged.
We did not expect the level of generous hospitality that followed. Tracy and Colin Burns, who run a family travel blog and a travel community website, treated us as nothing less than family. They took us to many local restaurants that we would have never found on our own. They taxied us to the mall on several occasions. And they gave us crucial business tips about local banking and travel blogging.
We immediately felt comfortable with the Burns. Being from Australia, they spoke English, albeit with an excellently exotic accent to us Americans. After a few days palling around with them in Penang, they invited us to join them in the Perhentian islands. We jumped at the chance and crammed into their minivan for a 6-hour drive to the speedboat pier to visit these remote islands.
The islands were something out of a movie. Crystal clear water, lively coral reef with brightly-colored fish, sea turtles and sharks, white sand beaches, good food and great company. The trip to Perhentians epitomized the full-time family vacation we envisioned for our world tour. Experiencing it with the Burns family made it that much better.
| The beach is so much more fun with friends |
They made us feel right at home giving us two of their bedrooms to bunk in. Tracy made a gourmet dinner our first night in their home. We continued our enlightening discussions about homeschooling and travel philosophy while the kids jumped on the trampoline and played extensively with almost no tears. They truly went above and beyond to help us and make us feel comfortable. For that, we can't even begin to express the proper level of gratitude to them.
The immediate kinship of sharing the same lifestyle is an obvious attraction to family travel bloggers. But the unbelievably generous hospitality was something that was unexpected. Thank you Burns family from the bottom of our hearts. Your friendship means a lot to us.
![]() |
| The whole Burns family |
http://www.ourtravellifestyle.com/
http://www.vagabondfamily.org/
http://www.nunomad.com/
Since I am the one that does most of the writing and you usually see the perspective of this trip from my eyes, I thought for our 3 months anniversary (Bloody hell, I can't believe 3 months have gone by already) it would be fun to see our family travel trip through the eyes of my actual family! To be clear, these were their words exactly, except what you see in parenthesis.
What do you like best about Asia?
D (12 years): The food
C(8 years): Vang Vieng and riding scooters
T(4 years): They have elephants
Dad: Cost of living and climate (pragmatic much?), and the sweet people that display empathy nearly every moment
What do you like the least about Asia?
D: The language, it's so hard to learn and communicate. Spanish was easier!
C: Ladyboys, they make me uncomfortable (we experienced a particularly friendly one at our hotel in Vientiane, like every day!!)
T: Kangaroos;)
Dad: Lack of consistent internet
Favorite place you have been so far?
D: Can't decide between Pai and Vang Vieng
C: Laos, mostly Vang Vieng
T: Tiger Kingdom, ummm, umm they have baby tigers....awww so cute!
Dad: Vang Vieng, Laos and Chiang Dao, Thailand (caves)
What is the hardest thing about traveling with bohemian mom?
D: Bugging us to clean our room, I mean it's a hotel room.
C: Freak out about when we don't know where we are going. (After asking what he means apparently I sweat the small stuff...who knew??!)
T: He doesn't know (and is quite into legos at the moment. He may not be a part of the rest of this interview but I shall persevere!)
Dad: (Hmm, seems he is having a hard time picking...It's coming...)"The question just spurs what I am grateful for and all you do". (Sappy but I am keeping that one!)
How about with bohemian dad?
D: Missing out on things because he is on the computer a lot (Dad works about 12 hours a day, most days)
C: He doesn't do so many things, I want him to come see everything with us.
T: No where (?? legos again)
Mom: That he has to work so much and doesn't come along on all our adventures
Favorite food so far?
D: Pad thai, best one was at a wat near Thae Pae gate in Chiang Mai
C: Moo gatiam, garlic pork NOT FRIED!
T: What do they have?? Wait, wait...brownies! (Yeah he isn't really getting this post!)
Dad: Stir fried vegetables over white rice
Worst day so far?
D: van to Vientiane
C: definitely the van to Vientiane
T: I don't know, how about the...(C interjects with van ride) van ride...which van ride
Dad: VAN TO LAOS and that border crossing because Bohemian mom was sooo sick and she usually deals with everything!
Best day so far?
D: Scooter riding first day I got to learn
C: any day with a scooter
T: The tiger kingdom (again after C interjected **sigh** Where can I find a sound proof room??)
Dad: First day getting scooters and teaching D how to drive!
What are you looking forward to the most in the next couple months?
D: Going to Koh Phi, Phi (see he put that in there to ensure we end up going, little devil, so darn smart)
C: Getting to China, to see the Great Wall and stuff
T: Don't know, I'm doing my best man. (yes that is a quote)
Dad: My sister coming to visit
What do you miss the most?
D: My friends and dogs
C: Friends
T: Olga (our housekeeper/nanny in CR that was part of our family for T's entire life)
Dad: Raw milk and fresh veggies being delivered to my house
I know there must be things you don't like about the travel, what are they?
D: Practically impossible to have friends because we are never in the same place for too long. Not having pets is really hard too, I love having pets. At least there are lots of animals we can adopt for a few weeks at a time in hotels or apartments
C: That we never get to make good friends because we leave. Miss having a few more toys, TV, having a fridge...(OK at this point I had to cut him off. I guess he misses a more home-like environment)
T: ???
Dad: The actual travel days was never one of my favorite things.
But overall, are you glad we are traveling like this?
D: Yes. (enthusiastic head shake while sipping a frozen pineapple drink!)
C: Yes
T: Yes
Dad: Of course!
It has been a great trip so far. We have encountered other travelers and friendly locals that are so warm and welcoming. There are always bad days in any trip but thankfully not too many so far. We miss a few things but really are settling into this lifestyle with ease and really appreciating the value of travel. The world is ours and we are taking it all in!
Do you have any other questions I should ask these guys?? Let me know in the comments section below! And if you like what you see please share this article with others. Thanks!
| The whole clan Click to enlarge |
What do you like best about Asia?
D (12 years): The food
C(8 years): Vang Vieng and riding scooters
T(4 years): They have elephants
Dad: Cost of living and climate (pragmatic much?), and the sweet people that display empathy nearly every moment
What do you like the least about Asia?
D: The language, it's so hard to learn and communicate. Spanish was easier!
C: Ladyboys, they make me uncomfortable (we experienced a particularly friendly one at our hotel in Vientiane, like every day!!)
T: Kangaroos;)
Dad: Lack of consistent internet
Favorite place you have been so far?
D: Can't decide between Pai and Vang Vieng
C: Laos, mostly Vang Vieng
T: Tiger Kingdom, ummm, umm they have baby tigers....awww so cute!
Dad: Vang Vieng, Laos and Chiang Dao, Thailand (caves)
What is the hardest thing about traveling with bohemian mom?
D: Bugging us to clean our room, I mean it's a hotel room.
C: Freak out about when we don't know where we are going. (After asking what he means apparently I sweat the small stuff...who knew??!)
T: He doesn't know (and is quite into legos at the moment. He may not be a part of the rest of this interview but I shall persevere!)
Dad: (Hmm, seems he is having a hard time picking...It's coming...)"The question just spurs what I am grateful for and all you do". (Sappy but I am keeping that one!)
How about with bohemian dad?
D: Missing out on things because he is on the computer a lot (Dad works about 12 hours a day, most days)
C: He doesn't do so many things, I want him to come see everything with us.
T: No where (?? legos again)
Mom: That he has to work so much and doesn't come along on all our adventures
Favorite food so far?
D: Pad thai, best one was at a wat near Thae Pae gate in Chiang Mai
C: Moo gatiam, garlic pork NOT FRIED!
T: What do they have?? Wait, wait...brownies! (Yeah he isn't really getting this post!)
Dad: Stir fried vegetables over white rice
Worst day so far?
D: van to Vientiane
C: definitely the van to Vientiane
T: I don't know, how about the...(C interjects with van ride) van ride...which van ride
Dad: VAN TO LAOS and that border crossing because Bohemian mom was sooo sick and she usually deals with everything!
| We all love scooterin" Click to enlarge |
D: Scooter riding first day I got to learn
C: any day with a scooter
T: The tiger kingdom (again after C interjected **sigh** Where can I find a sound proof room??)
Dad: First day getting scooters and teaching D how to drive!
What are you looking forward to the most in the next couple months?
D: Going to Koh Phi, Phi (see he put that in there to ensure we end up going, little devil, so darn smart)
C: Getting to China, to see the Great Wall and stuff
T: Don't know, I'm doing my best man. (yes that is a quote)
Dad: My sister coming to visit
What do you miss the most?
D: My friends and dogs
C: Friends
T: Olga (our housekeeper/nanny in CR that was part of our family for T's entire life)
Dad: Raw milk and fresh veggies being delivered to my house
I know there must be things you don't like about the travel, what are they?
D: Practically impossible to have friends because we are never in the same place for too long. Not having pets is really hard too, I love having pets. At least there are lots of animals we can adopt for a few weeks at a time in hotels or apartments
C: That we never get to make good friends because we leave. Miss having a few more toys, TV, having a fridge...(OK at this point I had to cut him off. I guess he misses a more home-like environment)
T: ???
Dad: The actual travel days was never one of my favorite things.
But overall, are you glad we are traveling like this?
D: Yes. (enthusiastic head shake while sipping a frozen pineapple drink!)
C: Yes
T: Yes
Dad: Of course!
It has been a great trip so far. We have encountered other travelers and friendly locals that are so warm and welcoming. There are always bad days in any trip but thankfully not too many so far. We miss a few things but really are settling into this lifestyle with ease and really appreciating the value of travel. The world is ours and we are taking it all in!
Do you have any other questions I should ask these guys?? Let me know in the comments section below! And if you like what you see please share this article with others. Thanks!
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| Yeah, I don't have homework tonight! Or ever! |
One of Holt's strongest beliefs was that children did not need to be forced into learning and anything that resembled school at all was counterproductive to their success. Unschooling, child led life learning, was born.
When I first heard about unschooling 8 years ago I thought it seemed crazy. I thought all the things that some of you are thinking right now. What about socialization, grades, college? My children need to go to school to be “on track” with everyone else. I thought it seemed lazy and neglectful and couldn’t imagine going against the grain in such an “extreme” way.
Flash forward to today and you see a very different philosophy in my home. I have spent the past 6 years homeschooling my oldest son. I have since had 2 more children, traveled with them extensively, moved to a foreign countries, and experimented with almost every type of homeschooling you can imagine. Then I discovered the mind opening experience that is unschooling and now I can’t imagine living my life in anything but this “extreme” way.
My oldest son started out life in a mainstream fashion. He attended 2 years of preschool and then went on to half-day Kindergarten. We lived in a wonderful small town with an excellent school system and were lucky enough to get an award-winning teacher for his Kindergarten experience. She was fantastic but through her own admission she could not provide the experience that she felt all the students deserved. It wasn’t a bad experience but we wanted more for our son. What more did we want? That is easy; room for independent thought, creativity, an ability to question things without being in “trouble” - and the freedom to run our household without the demands of the school system intruding.
The nagging question that remained was what could I, as a parent, do? After talking to that very same teacher and a lot of soul searching I decided to withdraw my son from school. She not only encouraged this, she was almost as enthusiastic as I was about the idea. I found that there were many philosophies to choose from within the realm of homeschooling. Since I was still caught up in the “school” mentality, we started by doing a canned curriculum at home. We tried this in many different ways for 3 years until I realized that we solved some of the issues but not all of them. Simply put, we were not enjoying it as much as we thought we should.
At this point I opened up my mind to the thoughts of unschooling and started reading book after book about it. I realized that I needed to throw away conventional thinking and open my mind up to the possibility that what I thought of as learning may not be the only path to knowledge. My discovery took place because of pioneers that came before me, Holt, Gatto, Kohn, and Sandra Dodd. They all showed me, through their writings, a new reality that I will forever be grateful for.
Reading books and opening my mind were the first steps in the process of de-schooling that Wikipedia defines as “the mental process a person goes through after being removed from a formal schooling environment, where the school mindset is eroded over time”. This step is vital for the entire family but for the parent it can be very difficult. We have far more baggage in regards to school and the added feeling and stress that we are responsible for our childrens’ education and, ultimately, their future. I struggled with what seemed like an ingrained need to follow the norm.
I did go to public school after all, and in his book Dumbing Us Down, John Taylor Gatto says “we are schooling children to merely obey orders…” Although I was a bit rebellious in school, I was still conditioned by societal norms and allowing myself to beak out of the box is where I struggled most on my journey to unschooling.
Ivan Illich first coined the term de-schooling in a controversial book called Deschooling Society, published in 1971. In this book he enlightens his readers to the fact that “universal education through schooling is not feasible”. He goes on to explain that the institutionalization of education means an institutionalization of society as a whole. And that it isn’t until we change the way we view education that we can change the way all institutions function. There is a corrupting impact at the institutional level but it is particularly damaging to society when this happens in schools, and it is happening in schools as we speak.
Another big hurdle for me was in understanding that authentic learning happens all the time. I realized over the past few years that you really can’t stop someone from learning no matter what you do or don’t do. My middle child has never been to school or even attempted anything remotely resembling school, yet at 7 he can read because he wanted to. Through simply living our lives he has learned numbers, adding, subtracting, percentage, fractions etc. How? We play war, poker, exchange money, let him do some shopping and all of those things are necessary for him so he has learned it. School puts our children in a box and real life cannot be found within it. I would prefer my children spend their time outside of that box, learning in the real world.
Everything my kids do shares an equal value because they are always learning, whether it is a walk in the jungle, playing video games, or reading a book. I love that my children have a say in what they want to discover. We offer them ideas and show them various paths to knowledge and support their enthusiasm, but ultimately it is what interests them that's most important to us. And don’t we all learn better when it is something pertinent in our lives? I know I do and I know my kids do as well.
De-schooling is an ongoing process and something I will be actively doing for many years to come. It has profoundly changed me as a person and there is no going back ever. It reaches beyond schooling and into our lives on every level. There is a new intensity of respect, equality and unconditional love for all members of the family. We all know now what authentic learning is, it looks nothing like school and we are all happier for it.
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| Wikimedia Commons Image |
It is rare for our dreams and expectations to live up to reality. Often times we build a destination up in our minds only to be disappointed by cheesy touristic over development, or feeling cheated by travel writers and documentarists eager to oversell and hide the negative.
As I drove along the barren coastal Dead Sea road my driver nonchalantly waved his hand, “This used to be Sodom and Gomorrah.” Twenty minutes earlier he had pointed to where Jesus was baptized in the Jordan River.
Amazed by how everyday his comment was I pushed to know more. “What’s the site called?”
“Baptism Place.” He never took his eyes off the road. I thought he just didn’t know the name in English until I saw a large blue highway sign announcing the exit. It read simply, “Baptism Place.” Understatement was becoming common as I drove with friends for 3 hours to the ancient lost city of Petra, one of the New Wonders of the World, and Jordan’s shiniest gem in an open air treasury boasting thousands of glittering wonders.
The Approach
“Soak in the experience, cameras will only remind you of the looks not the sense of awe nature imparts here,” our guide recommended as we walked slowly through the Siq, the 1.2 km narrow canyon leading to Petra. Shear sandstone cliffs towered above, ancient cobbled stones, smooth by thousands of years of use greeted our feet, eroded idols lumped us together with the millions who have passed by over the 2,600 year history of the city.
Rounding a corner your senses are suddenly overwhelmed by the majesty of what lies ahead. The Treasury, Petra’s main monument, fills the gap in the canyon. You feel insignificant and humbled by the beauty of man’s ingenuity competing with the already inspiring landscape. You are not alone; hundreds of other tourists are competing to be alone with the Treasury, touts are hawking their wares and the camel and horse guides are shouting for your attention. Despite the noise and day to day business of the area time slows, and you are left with the monument. It was exactly how I imagined it would be, and more.
The City and Tombs
The Treasury, which takes its name from recent times when locals believed a treasure was located in the top urn and shoot it to destruction, is but the tip of the iceberg. The vast city of Petra lies hidden in the surrounding mountains containing tombs ranging from simple caves to elaborate royal burial chambers. Multicolored minerals blend magically with the sandstone and change hues as the advancing sun heats the rocks.
A guide can be an expensive proposition at 50 dinars (about $75) but well worth the investment if you have others to share the cost. The size and complexity of Petra needs at least a simple introduction and orientation before you explore and discover its secrets on your own. Things like ancient piping, the economy of the city that led to its prosperity, and sculptures of camels hidden in the rocks are all things we would have missed without our guide.
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| Wikimedia commons image |
Hidden, even deeper and higher up in the mountains, is the Monastery. Larger than the Treasury, the steep 900 stair path winding its way into the mountains is one of the highlights of Petra not to miss. The walk takes about 1 hour up and 20 minutes down. If you’re running out of time, hire a donkey for 5 dinars. The trip is one way but is unforgettable. These surefooted beasts of burden will deliver you to the top safe and sound, but coursing with adrenaline and excitement. Bumpy, unsettling at times on hairpin turns with sheer cliffs, especially when the donkey slips, this was one of my favorite experiences. High up on the mountain, the wind whipping the sand across your exposed face, you turn a corner and suddenly you are insignificant again. The Monastery overpowers you, cut deep into the mountain again by the power of man but the result is something more.
You’ll have to wait for the upcoming photo essay to see the Monastery, and the video of my donkey ride!
“We’ll stop here for a few minutes.” We are on our way back to the Dead Sea and our driver is not giving us a choice. We get out wondering what the small humble building in front of us holds. We stroll in; there is no fee to pay. In a small one room structure sits a rock and a basin of water below it. Water flows slowly between the stones. “Moses struck this rock and caused the water to spring forth as he led the Jews from Egypt to the Promised Land.”
Like everything else we experienced that day, it was biblical. Understated, but biblical nonetheless.
If you Go
Getting there
The airport in Amman is the main gateway to Jordan. The visa lines can be a bit tricky so check if you need to get a visa on arrival. I wasted 20 minutes waiting in the “Other Nationalities” line before I found out I had to buy my visa (10 dinars) and go through a separate line.
Driving from Amman to Petra takes between 3 and 3 ½ hours. Bus tours, private taxis, and private drivers are all on offer.
You can see most of Petra in a full day, about 7-8 hours. But to really explore the area plan on 2-3 days to feel like you’ve seen it all.
For more information, advise, and musings about travel visit www.toddswanderings.com
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